When a fall storm knocks out the power, your gas furnace stops too. Learn why, how to restart it safely once power returns, and when to call Gibson Home Services.

Fall storms and early nor'easters can knock out power across Burlington County with little warning. The lights go dark, the thermostat screen goes blank, and the vents go quiet. Within an hour or two, you may notice the house getting cooler. If your furnace is not working after a power outage in Delran, the most useful thing you can do is understand what is happening before you pick up the phone.
Many homeowners assume that a gas furnace should keep running when the lights are out, because the fuel is natural gas, not electricity. Modern heating equipment does not work that way. A furnace that stops during a blackout is usually just waiting for power to come back, not broken. This guide walks through why that is, how to tell an outage from an equipment problem, how to restart your system safely once power returns, and when it makes sense to call Gibson Home Services for heating repair.
Decades ago, many furnaces used a standing pilot light and a simple mechanical gas valve, and some could operate with very little electricity. Modern safety standards and efficiency requirements changed that. Today, a gas furnace is as much an electrical appliance as it is a gas one. Even if you have a boiler instead of a furnace (see our boiler services), the controls, igniter and circulator pump still need power.
The heating cycle in a modern furnace is run by a control board. Think of it as the brain of the system. It needs a steady 120V supply to talk to your thermostat and step through each stage of the heating cycle. If the board has no power, the furnace does not know your house is cold.
Even with gas available at the meter, the furnace depends on several electrical components:
• The Draft Inducer Motor: Before the gas valve opens, this motor runs to push leftover exhaust out of the heat exchanger and up the flue. This keeps combustion gases, including carbon monoxide, moving out of the home.
• Electronic Ignition: Instead of a standing pilot, modern furnaces use a hot surface igniter or a spark igniter to light the burners. Both need electrical current.
• The Blower Motor: Once the heat exchanger warms up, the blower moves that heat through your ductwork. Without the blower, the heat has nowhere to go.
If the blower cannot run, the furnace's safety controls keep the burners off. That is intentional. It protects the heat exchanger from overheating and cracking. If you would like a closer look at each stage, our article on the furnace sequence of operations explains it step by step.
When the air stops blowing, it is natural to assume the heater has failed. A few simple checks will tell you whether you need an HVAC technician or whether the utility simply needs to restore service.
1. Check other appliances: Try a lamp in another room, the microwave, or the oven light. Sometimes a home loses part of its power, so a few lights work while larger appliances do not. If other 120V and 240V appliances will not run, the furnace will not either.
2. Check your utility's outage map: Using your phone's cellular data, look up your electric utility's outage map or text alert service. If your street shows an outage, the problem is on the grid, not in your equipment.
3. Look at your electrical panel: With a flashlight, check the breaker panel. A tripped breaker can look like a local outage. A tripped breaker often rests in the middle position rather than all the way off. To reset it, switch it firmly to OFF, then back to ON.
4. Know the limits of a service visit: If the neighborhood power is out, a technician cannot make the furnace run. The control board and motors need electricity that only the utility can restore.
If your whole street is dark, the honest answer is that a service call cannot restore your heat. A technician could confirm that the furnace has no power, but there is nothing to repair until electricity returns. Paying for that visit does not get your house warm any sooner.
The better plan is to stay safe, keep warm, and wait for the utility to restore power. Once the lights are back on and stable, run through the restart steps below. If the furnace still will not heat at that point, that is the right time to call us. Real equipment problems do happen after an outage, and when they do, we will diagnose the system and explain your options clearly before any work begins.
While you wait for power to return, keeping your household warm and safe is the priority. Cold, dark houses can lead to risky shortcuts, so it helps to decide in advance what you will and will not do.
• Keep the heat in: Close doors to rooms you are not using and gather in one central room. Close curtains and blinds, especially at night, and use blankets, sleeping bags and warm layers.
• Use only indoor-rated heaters: Electric space heaters will not run without power. Any fuel-burning heater (propane or kerosene) produces combustion gases, including carbon monoxide: use only one explicitly rated for indoor use, follow its instructions for fresh-air ventilation, keep a working carbon monoxide alarm nearby, keep it clear of anything that can burn, and never leave it running unattended or while sleeping.
• Never use cooking appliances for heat: Do not use a gas oven, stovetop, outdoor grill or camping heater to heat your home. These can produce dangerous levels of carbon monoxide.
• Test your carbon monoxide alarms: Make sure your CO and smoke alarms have working batteries, especially hardwired alarms, which depend on their batteries while the power is out.
• Blankets, layers and one shared room — Safety Level: High — Notes: The simplest and safest way to hold heat for several hours.
• Indoor-rated portable heater — Safety Level: Moderate — Notes: Electric heaters need power. Fuel-burning models must be rated for indoor use, need ventilation per the instructions and a working CO alarm nearby; supervise at all times.
• Wood-burning fireplace — Safety Level: Moderate — Notes: Useful for one room if the chimney is clean and inspected, the damper is open and a screen is in place; keep a working CO alarm nearby.
• Gas oven, stovetop or grill — Safety Level: Unsafe (DANGER) — Notes: Never use these to heat a home because of carbon monoxide risk.
When the power comes back, it is tempting to turn the thermostat all the way up. A little patience protects your equipment and helps you tell whether you need routine maintenance or an actual repair.
1. Give it a few minutes: Power can flicker on and off while the utility restores service. Wait until the power has been steady for several minutes before asking the furnace to run.
2. Check the furnace switch: Most furnaces have a service switch that looks like a light switch, mounted on or near the unit. It is easy to bump in the dark while looking for flashlights. Make sure it is ON.
3. Check the breaker again: Power surges when service returns can trip a breaker. If the furnace breaker is in the middle position, switch it fully OFF, then back ON.
4. Check the thermostat: If your thermostat uses batteries or lost its settings, confirm it is set to Heat and the set point is above room temperature.
5. Listen to the start-up sequence: You should hear a click from the control board, the hum of the draft inducer, the igniter glowing or clicking, the burners lighting, and then the blower starting.
6. Watch for repeated attempts: If the system tries to start, shuts off, and tries again several times, it may have gone into a safety lockout. If it still will not heat once power is stable and the switches and breaker are on, it is time to call for service.
• Do not keep resetting a lockout: Turning the power off and on over and over can hide the cause of a problem and put extra stress on components. One reset is reasonable; after that, call a professional.
• Do not open the burner compartment or bypass safety switches: Safety controls exist to prevent overheating and keep combustion gases moving outside. Leave them in place.
• Do not ignore a gas smell: If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not operate switches or appliances on the way out.
• Do not ignore a burning electrical smell: A light dusty smell can be normal at first start-up, but a sharp, plastic or electrical odor is not. Turn the system off at the switch and call for service. Our guide to furnace burn-off versus melting wire odors explains the difference.
Call us when power has been restored and stable, the breaker and furnace switch are on, the thermostat is set correctly, and the furnace still will not heat. A power surge can sometimes damage a control board, igniter or motor, and a technician can test those parts and explain what failed.
Our hours are Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM, and Saturday, 8 AM to 12 PM, by appointment. We are closed on Sunday. Holiday availability varies; please call. Outside business hours, phone and booking coverage may be available through our answering service; service visits are scheduled during business hours.
For non-members, a service visit carries a $125 standard service fee, and we use flat-rate repair pricing, so you know the price before work begins. Comfort Club members pay a reduced service fee. Repairs carry a 90-day labor warranty, and manufacturer parts warranties apply as provided by the manufacturer.
If you are planning ahead for the season, you may also find our article on setting your thermostat for fall in Delran helpful. Here are the questions homeowners ask most often about furnaces and power outages.
No. A modern gas furnace needs 120V power to run the control board, draft inducer, electronic igniter and blower. Without electricity, the safety controls keep the gas valve closed.
The furnace depends on electrical parts to run the heating cycle safely. The inducer moves exhaust out of the home, the blower moves warm air through your ducts, and the control board coordinates both with the thermostat. With no power, none of them can run.
No. If the neighborhood power is out, a technician cannot run tests or power the motors. Wait for the utility to restore electricity, then follow the restart steps above before scheduling a service call.
Gather in one room, close off unused rooms, close curtains, and use blankets and warm layers. Electric heaters need power. Any fuel-burning heater must be rated for indoor use and ventilated per its instructions, and never use a gas oven, stovetop, grill or camping heater to heat your home. Make sure your carbon monoxide alarms are working.
Wait until power is steady, then check the furnace breaker and the service switch on or near the unit, and confirm the thermostat is set to Heat. If everything is on and the furnace still will not heat, a surge may have damaged a component. Call Gibson Home Services at (856) 220-4158 or request service online.
Losing heat during a fall storm in Delran is frustrating, but knowing how your furnace works makes it easier to handle. Because a modern gas furnace depends on electricity, the first step is almost always to confirm the power situation and wait for the utility to restore service.
Once the lights are back and steady, a few simple checks will tell you whether the system just needs a restart or a professional diagnosis. If the house is still cold after that, we are glad to help. Call (856) 220-4158 or request service online, and we will schedule a visit and explain what we find in plain English.
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